Kolhapur vs. Prada: The chappal drama we didn’t see coming
Was it ‘Inspired’ or 'Stolen'?
Imagine a huge, fancy room with bright lights! Everyone in the audience is excited. TING! A cymbal rings out, and the first model walks in wearing stylish clothes and fancy open-toed sandals. Next, a man in a long, cape-like kurta steps onto the ramp, wearing another pair of the same cool sandals. A younger man follows, his shirt billowing in the breeze, sandals glinting under the lights. The music grows louder. Finally, ALL the models walk together in colourful printed coats, their sandals leaving faint marks on the shiny floor.
Meanwhile, in a small thatched hut under the blazing sun, Mohan and Shubhangi huddle over their phone, watching the models on YouTube. Surprised, thrilled, and utterly shocked, they realize: their town’s famed Kolhapuri chappals are strutting across Milan Fashion Week.
Years ago, their town had secured a GI (Geographical Indication) tag to protect their unique design. No one else was allowed to copy it without permission. Yet, Prada seemed to have broken the rules. Could Prada get away with it just because they’re a big brand, and the artisans are from a small Indian town?
Every week, on the Lighter Side, I write about one news story that makes my eyes pop out, sometimes from suspense and sometimes from pure shock. This week’s story is about a luxury brand (Prada) copying a famous Indian sandal design (the Kolhapuri chappal), even though it is protected by a special law (GI tagging).
In this post, we’ll uncover, what is GI tagging, has Prada’s fashion show inadvertently helped Kolhapuri chappals get famous? What are the artisans saying?
Grab your detective hats.
What is GI tagging?
45-year old Firdausa opens the window of her living room and lets in the fresh air blowing from the snow-capped peaks of Kashmir. She hums a folk tune as she spins cashmere wool with her calloused fingers. Slowly, a beautiful a Pashmina shawl emerges from her hands. The shawl is so light that it can almost float in air.
At about the same time, on the other side of the Himalayas in far-away Darjeeling, Bibha plucks tea leaves along the hillside. She works with surgical precision as each leaf is destined to become Darjeeling’s golden brew (a tea that is special for tea-lovers around the world as though it carries the melody of monsoon rains and mountain winds).
Vitthal on the other hand, has no luck with mountains or breeze. He sits in his dusty workshop in Maharashtra where the sun sears above. He hammers soles onto Kolhapuri chappals and his hands etch every stitch with an ancient design that has been handed over to him for generations.
What’s common for Firdausa, Bibha and Vithhal is that nobody in any other part of the world is allowed to copy their work or use the special name given to their products. That means only Kashmir’s artisans can call a shawl Pashmina. (These shawls are woven from the underbelly of Himalayan goats). Similarly, no other tea can be labeled "Darjeeling tea" or mimic its muscatel flavor, if it is not plucked from the hills of Darjeeling. The chappals with braided designs and tamarind-sole scent belong only to the hands of Kolhapur’s cobblers.
All of these are products protected by something called GI tagging. A GI (Geographical Indication) tag protects unique products tied to a specific region.
To qualify for a GI tag, a product must originate from a specific region (e.g. tea from Darjeeling in India, or wine from the Champagne region in France, or saris from Kanchipuram)
the product must be using age-old techniques passed down through generations (e.g. chappals of Kolhapur, precision watches made in Switzerland).
These tag ownerships do not go to any one large factory or a corporate. It goes to a community of artisans or farmers who produce the product.
Why does GI tagging matter?
Imagine if someone copied your amazing art project, slapped their name on it, and got all the credit. Not cool, right? That’s why we have GI tags!
That "Swiss watch" from Dubai? Nope. The real ones only come from Switzerland.
That “laddu” from the local bakery that tastes just like it does in Tirupati? Nope. Only the laddus made by the Tirupati temple in its kitchen can use the term ‘Tirupati laddu’.
GI tags protect the real creators so they get paid for their hard work. Otherwise, copycats would steal all the glory (and money).
Look at the picture above. That’s a traditional Kolhapuri chappal that you can get for INR 1000-2000 ($USD 12 - 20). Look at the picture below. That’s the sandal that Prada showcased in the recent Milan Fashion Week. These are priced 100x higher (at INR 120,000 - 200,000).
The good AND bad news
If Prada copies Kolhapuri chappals without permission, the local artisans can take them to court. GI tags are like legal ‘No copying’ signs.
But here’s the twist: Big brands sometimes tweak the design just enough to dodge the law. For example, they can swap the buckle (add a fancy Prada logo clasp instead of traditional brass). Or they could alter the sole (make it chunky instead of flat). Sometimes, a court can let Prada get away with these minor changes and declare that it is NOT a copy of the Kolhapuri chappals.
Let us, for the sake of argument assume that Prada is indeed caught for copying. Then the court could levy hefty penalties on the company. But let’s be real, lawsuits take forever and artisans don’t have the time or money to fight big brands in courts. Nevertheless, Indian artisans are rearing to take Prada to court and here is what has happened so far.
Prada’s models walked the ramp in Milan in Kolhapuri chappals at the Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week.
The brand just called them "leather sandals" with no reference to Kolhapur.
A delegation of Kolhapuri sandal manufacturers met Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis to register their protest.
Even a local BJP leader joined in, threatening to sue Prada in court.
The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) wrote to Patrizio Bertelli, the chairperson of Prada’s Board of Directors, lodging their protests over using their design and NOT acknowledging the design’s origins.
Two days later, Prada responded “We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development, and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialised.” (that’s basically saying ‘oops…you noticed that we’ve copied’)
What’s the good news?
In Kolhapur (land of kings, temples, and 12th-century sandal-making legends), 20,000 families still stitch delicate designs into every chappal. These families have kept this craft alive for 100+ years... only to watch it slowly fade as customers forget its value. For the artists whose see Indians not valuing the craft anymore, if Prada ‘steals’ it and makes it trendy globally… is that bad?
These artists are expert craftsmen. Not expert Instagram influencers or website makers. Marketing their products are a challenge for them in the digital age. If Prada has brought their chappals some free publicity….is that bad?
Irony alert: Prada prices their version at ₹1.2 lakh; the locals sell theirs for ₹1,000.
Silver lining: This Prada drama might finally make the world notice Kolhapur’s artisans. After 900 years, these artisans are still waiting for their fair share of income growth and stability.
What could be a good way forward?
Instead of empty "oops" notes, Prada could:
Co-create a collection with Kolhapur’s artisans, giving them design credit + profit share.
Invest in craft clusters, fund workshops, tech upgrades, and global marketing for the actual makers.
Imagine "Prada x Kolhapuri Artisans" on Milan runways—with the real creators front and center. That is luxury ethics.
New podcast episode
🎧 Part 2: Kashmir – The Family Feud That Just Won’t Die
Remember that "little tussle" over Kashmir during the India-Pakistan Partition? It was the one that was supposed to fizzle out a family drama at Diwali. Spoiler: It didn’t.
Thanks to the Cold War between the US and the Soviet Union, what started as a messy breakup between India & Pakistan, it turned into a decades-long soap opera with nukes.
Missed Part 1? We rewind to 1947—when lines were drawn, hearts were broken, and Kashmir became the ultimate group chat dispute. Listen now before Part 3 drops… and someone launches another war meme.
Listen to part 2
Listen to part 1
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